Crafts In Uttar Pradesh

The Chikankari Embroidery of Lucknow

The delicate art of embroidery traditionally practiced in the city of Lucknow and it’s environs is known as ‘Chikankari’. The name ‘chikan’ seems to have been derived from the Persian word, either ‘Chikan’, ‘Chikin’ or ‘Chikeen’. It means a kind of cloth wrought with needle–work. Although it originated as a court craft, today it is a practiced tradition and an important commercial activity.
Chikan work has a very light, gossamer – like quality. This makes it very suitable for the seemingly hot Seasons of Rajasthan of the northern plain region. It can be assumed that Chikankari, using sheer fabrics evolved as a logical answer to the problem of keeping cool and also providing adornment and beauty to one’s person or in the surroundings.

The light chikan saris are perfect for summer wear. Men prefer to wear their chikan kurtas during summer evenings.

There is a popular legend that a courtesan in the Nawab of Avadh’s harem was a master. He was so impressed by the work, that he started a workshop where this style of embroidery would be developed further. The Nawab were the setters of fashion. The other humbler nobles and Zamindars would imitate them in every way.



Chikankari thus received great impetus during the Nawabi period. The finely embroidered muslin came to be closely identified with the Nawabi culture and became an intrinsic part of it. The Chikankari tradition gradually filtered down the masses of common people and became a part of their daily life.

The source of most design motifs in Chikankari is Mughal. These motifs can also be seen in the ornamentation of Mughal buildings like the Taj Mahal and the monuments of Fatehpur Sikri.

There are various stitches used in Chikankari. They vary according to the kind of designs and materials used. The most frequently used stitch is the satin stitch. This is a very delicate and minute stitch.

Other stitches like the darning stitch, stem stitch, chain stitch etc. are also used. All these stitches are sometimes used individually but more often in combination of two or more together to fill the whole motif. There are minute variations on these basic stitches and much manipulation in terms of shape and size.